Cosmetic compositions containing water dispersible pigment which is surface treated with a polymer and process

ABSTRACT

Colour cosmetic water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion compositions wherein the aqueous phase contains a water-dispersible pigment and the oil phase contains an oil-dispersible pigment. The compositions provide improved coverage and wear, with excellent moisturisation, spreadability, product stability and skin-feel, reduced shine and tackiness.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to cosmetic make-up compositions and moreparticularly, to pigmented foundation make-up compositions havingimproved coverage together with excellent moisturisation effectiveness,application characteristics, skin feel and appearance. The presentinvention also relates to processes for manufacturing cosmetic make-upcompositions which provide a convenient means for shade adjustment ofthe said compositions.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

A foundation composition can be applied to the face and other parts ofthe body to even skin tone and texture and to hide pores, imperfections,fine lines and the like. Particularly suitable foundation compositionsare available in the form of liquid or cream suspensions, emulsions, andgels.

Such compositions are typically made by incorporating a mixture ofpigments into a liquid base. The pigments, commonly based on ironoxides, titanium dioxide, or mixtures thereof, are chosen such that theyprovide desirable skin tones when the product is applied to the skin.The process for incorporating the pigments often requires a millingstage in order to control the pigment dispersion and thus provide smoothand even coverage of the skin.

As a consequence of variances in raw materials and processsing, batchesof finished product may deviate in colour from the target shade. Routinemanufacture usually allows for a final shade adjustment of each liquidfoundation batch. Since the pigments used cannot usuallystraightforwardly be added to the finished product without firstpre-wetting them in either the oil or water phase, a common practice isto prepare monochromatic batches of finished product specifically forthe purpose of final shade adjustment. The need to prepare thesemonochromatic batches increases the complexity and cost of themanufacturing process.

Quite apart from manufacturing considerations, users of foundationcompositions often express dissatisfaction with the degree of coverageof the skin provided by foundations based on conventional pigmentsystems. Moreover, it is often found that in attempting to improve theamount of coverage by increasing the total pigment level, thenaturalness of appearance is adversely affected. It would therefore bedesirable to provide a foundation composition containing novel pigmentsystems which deliver improved coverage and wear without compromising onother properties of the foundation such as skin feel, applicationcharacteristics and a natural appearance.

It is accordingly an object of this invention to provide a foundationcomposition in the form of either a water-in-oil or an oil-in-wateremulsion, which exhibits improvements in coverage, together withexcellent wear characteristics and a natural appearance.

It is also an object of this invention to provide a foundationcomposition which provides improvements in coverage and wear withouttrade-offs in other areas of foundation performance, especially skinfeel and application characteristics.

It is a further object of the invention to provide an improved method ofmanufacturing and shade-matching of colour cosmetic emulsion-formcompositions, and, in particular, a method in which the shade can beadjusted to the desired target without the need to use separatelyprepared monochromatic batches of the compositions.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

According to a first aspect of the invention there is provided a processfor manufacturing a colour cosmetic water-in-oil or oil-in-wateremulsion composition in which the colour derives from the addition ofinorganic or organic pigment, wherein at least a portion of the pigmentis made water-dispersible by surface treatment with hydrophilic polymer,and wherein the process comprises adding all or part of thewater-dispersible polymer-treated pigment into a pre-formed water-in-oilor oil-in-water emulsion.

According to a further aspect of the invention there is provided acolour cosmetic water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion compositionwherein the aqueous phase contains a water-dispersible pigment and theoil phase contains an oil-dispersible pigment.

All levels and ratios are by weight of total composition, unlessotherwise indicated.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

The compositions of the invention take the form of either water-in-oilor oil-in-water emulsions which contain as essential ingredient awater-dispersible pigment or mixture of pigments. According to oneembodiment herein the pigment is a water-dispersible polymer-treatedinorganic or organic pigment, more preferably the pigment is awater-dispersible polyester or polyesteramide-treated pigment,especially a water-dispersible polyester-treated pigment. Suitablewater-dispersible polyester-treated pigments are those available underthe tradename Eastman AQ Treated Pigment (from Eastman ChemicalCorporation). The water-dispersible pigment or mixture of pigments ispresent in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 25%, preferably fromabout 0.5% to about 15%, and more preferably from about 1% to about 12%by weight.

A preferred water-dispersible polyester or polyester amide for useherein comprises the following repeat units:

(a) at least one difunctional dicarboxylic acid,

(b) at least one difunctional sulfomonomer containing at least onesulfonate group of the formula:

    --SO.sub.3 M

wherein M is H, a metal ion, or a nitrogen-containing basic group, andwherein said sulfonate group is attached directly to an aromatic nucleusand the functional groups of said sulfomonomer are hydroxy, carboxy,amino or a mixture thereof, and

(c) at least one glycol or a mixture of a glycol and a diamine havingtwo --NRH groups, the glycol containing two --CH₂ --OH groups, wherein Ris H or an alkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

Preferably the difunctional sulfomonomer is present at a level of fromabout 2 to about 25 mole %, based on a total of all acid, hydroxyl andamino equivalents being equal to 200 mole %.

The water-dispersible polyester-treated pigment used herein comprisesfrom about 1% to about 40%, preferably from about 5% to about 30% byweight thereof of polymer. The average particle size of the treatedgranulated pigment product is typically between 75 μm and about 1000 μm,with a more typical average particle size being between about 125 μm andabout 500 μm, especially between about 150 μm to about 300 μm.

The pigment materials useful in the present invention includewater-insoluble, or sparingly water-soluble inorganic and organicpigments, and pearlants commonly used in cosmetics, paints, coatings,and inks, preferably inorganic pigments. Pigment materials suitableherein have a refractive index greater than 1.5, preferably greaterthan 1. 8, more preferably greater than 2. The mean primary particlesize of said pigments is preferably greater than 150 nm, more preferablygreater than 200 nm.

Typical inorganic pigments include iron oxides of various colors(yellow, red, brown and black), ferric ammonium ferrocyanide (blue),manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chrome oxide (green), titaniumdioxide (white) and mixtures of said inorganic pigments. Typicalpearlants include mica, bismuth oxychloride and treated mica such astitanated micas.

Exemplary pigments useful in the present invention include the C. I.pigment materials, especially polymer-treated inorganic pigmentscontaining iron oxide or titanium dioxide such as, for example, C. I.Pigment Yellow 42, C. I. Pigment Red 101, C. I. Pigment Black 11 and C.I. Pigment White 6. It is noted that pigments having large amounts ofionizable cations are not preferred since they interfere with the waterdispersibility of the polymer.

The polyesters useful herein for treating pigment or mixture of pigmentscomprise linear, water-dissipatable polymers having an inherentviscosity of at least 0.1 and preferably at least 0.2 and morepreferably at least 0.3 (measured as described hereinbelow) and a glasstransition temperature ranging from 25° to 90° C. when the polymers arein the dry state. When the polymers contain 1-25 % water of its ownweight, the glass transition temperatures ("Tg"s, as measured bydifferential scanning calorimetry (DSC)) may drop to a lower rangeusually below 50° C. The polymer compositions useful in this inventionare polyesters and polyesteramides described in U.S. Pat. No. 3,546,008,U.S. Pat. No. 3,734,874, U.S. Pat. No. 3,779,993 and U.S. Pat. No.4,233,196. The polyester or polyesteramide used herein preferablycomprise a dicarboxylic acid component, a difunctional sulfomonomercomponent and a glycol component.

The dicarboxylic acid component of the polyester or polyesteramidecomprises aliphatic dicarboxylic acids, alicyclic dicarboxylic acids,aromatic dicarboxylic acids, or mixtures of two or more of these acids.Examples of such dicarboxylic acids include succinic, glutaric, adipic,azelaic, sebacic, itaconic, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic, phthalic,terephthalic and isophthalic. If terephthalic acid is used as thecarboxylic acid component of the polyester, superior results areachieved when at least 5 mole percent of one of the other acids is alsoused. The preferred dicarboxylic acid component for use herein isisophthalic acid.

It should be understood that use of the corresponding acid anhydrides,esters, and acid chlorides and other substituted derivatives of theseacids is included in the term "dicarboxylic acid".

Other suitable acids are disclosed in, for example, U.S. Pat. No.3,779,993. The difunctional sulfo-monomer component of the polyester orpolyesteramide may advantageously be a dicarboxylic acid or an esterthereof containing a metal sulfonate group or a glycol containing ametal sulfonate group or a hydroxy acid containing a metal sulfonategroup. The metal ion of the sulfonate salt may be Na+, Li+, K+ and thelike. The resulting polyesters or polyesteramides are less readilydissipated by cold water and more readily dissipated by hot water. It ispossible to prepare the polyester or polyesteramide using, for example,as sodium sulfonate salt and later by ion-exchange replace this ion witha different ion, and thus alter the characteristics of the polymer. Thedifunctional monomer component may also be referred to as a difunctionalsulfo-monomer and is further described hereinbelow.

Advantageous difunctional sulfo-monomer components are those wherein thesulfonate salt group is attached to an aromatic acid nucleus such asbenzene, naphthalene, diphenyl, oxydiphenyl, sulfonyldiphenyl ormethylenediphenyl nucleus. Preferred results are obtained through theuse of sulfophthalic acid, sulfoterephthalic acid, sulfoisophthalicacid,4-sulfonaphthalene-2,7-dicarboxylic acid, and their esters;metallosulfoaryl sulfonate as described in U.S. Pat. No. 3,779,993. Mostpreferred for use herein is sulfoisophthalic acid.

When the sulfonate-containing difunctional monomer is an acid or itsester, the polyester or polyesteramide should contain at least 8 molepercent of said monomer based on total acid content, with more than 10mole percent giving particularly advantageous results. Total acidcontent is calculated as the sum of (1) moles of component (a) namelydicarboxylic acids, (2) one-half of the moles of carboxyl-containingcompounds of component (d), (3) moles of component (c) which aredicarboxylic acids, and (4) one-half of the moles of component (c) whichare monocarboxy-containing compounds.

Preferably at least part of the glycol component contains repeatingunits of a poly(ethylene glycol) of the formula H--(OCH--₂ --CH₂)_(n)--OH wherein n is an integer of 1 to 500, more preferably 2 to about500. The values of n and the mole percent of poly(ethylene glycol)within the stated range is inversely proportional to the quantity of nwithin the stated ranges. Thus, when the mole percent is high, the valueof n is low. On the other hand, if the mole percent is low, the value ofn is high. It is apparent, therefore, that the weight percent (productof mole percent and molecular weight) of the polyethylene glycol is animportant consideration because the water dissipatability of thecopolyester decreases as the weight percent poly-(ethylene glycol) inthe copolyester decreases. For example, if the weight percent ofpoly(ethylene glycol) is too low, the water dissipatability of thecopolyester may be inadequate. Furthermore, the weight percent ofpoly(ethylene glycol) is preferably adjusted such that it is inverselyproportional to the mole percent of the difunctional sulfomonomerbecause the water dissipatability of the copolyester is a function ofboth the mole percent sulfomonomer and the weight percent polyethyleneglycol.

Examples of suitable poly(ethylene glycols) include relatively highmolecular weight polyethylene glycols, some of which are availablecommercially under the designation "Carbowax", a product of UnionCarbide. Diethylene glycol is also especially suitable.

Other useful glycols for preparing copolyesters may consist ofaliphatic, alicyclic, and aralkyl glycols. Examples of these glycolsinclude ethylene glycol; propylene glycol; 1,3-propanediol,2,4-dimethyl-2-ethylhexane-1,3-diol;2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediol;2-ethyl-2-butyl -1,3-propanediol; 2-ethyl-2-isobutyl-1,3-propanediol; 1,3-butanediol; 1,4-butanediol; 1,5-pentanediol; 1,6hexanediol;2,2,4-trimethyl-1,6hexanediol; thiodiethanol; 1,2-cyclohexanedimethanol;1,3-cyclohexanedimethanol; 1,4-cyclohexanedimethanol;2,2,4,4-tetramethyl-1,3-cyclobutanediol; p-xylylenediol.

A preferred polyester herein is a diglycol cyclohexanedimethanolisophthalates sulfoisophthalates copolymer. Particularly superiorresults are achieved when the difunctional sulfo-monomer component isS-sodiosulfoisophthalic acid or its esters and the glycol is a mixtureof ethylene glycol or 1,4-cyclohexanedimethanol with diethylene glycol.

Other suitable water-dispersible pigments for incorporation in thecompositions of the invention include hydrophilic pigments based on, forexample, titanium dioxide and iron oxides.

In a preferred aspect of the invention the compositions herein alsocontain an oil-dispersible pigment or mixture of pigments in a levelpreferably from about 0.1% to about 25%, more preferably from about 0.5%to about 15% and especially from about 1% to about 12%. by weight.

Suitable oil-dispersible pigments for use herein can be inorganic and/ororganic. Examples of suitable pigments include iron oxides of variouscolors (yellow, red, brown and black), ferric ammonium ferrocyanide(blue), manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chrome oxide (green),titanium dioxide (white) and mixtures of said inorganic pigments. Amixture of pigments will normally be used.

Also suitable for use herein are coated pigments. The pigments can betreated with compounds such as perfluoroethers, amino acids, silicones,lecithin and ester oils, more preferably with silicones (polysiloxanes)such as polymethyl hydrogen siloxane as described in EP-A-0271925.

The compositions herein take the form of water-in-oil or oil-in-wateremulsions in which the oil phase can include one or more silicone oilcomponents. In preferred embodiments thereof the silicone oil comprisesvolatile silicones or a mixture of volatile silicones and non-volatilesilicones. The silicone oil can be included in an amount of from about1% to about 50% by weight. Suitable volatile silicone oils includecyclic and linear volatile polyorganosiloxanes (as used herein,"volatile" refers to those materials which have a measurable vapourpressure at ambient conditions).

A description of various volatile silicones is found in Todd, et al.."Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics", 91 Cosmetics and Toiletries27-32 (1976).

Preferred cyclic silicones include polydimethylsiloxanes containing fromabout 3 to about 9 silicon atoms, preferably containing from about 4 toabout 5 silicon atoms. Preferred linear silicone oils include thepolydimethylsiloxanes containing from about 3 to about 9 silicon atoms.The linear volatile silicones generally have viscosities of less thanabout 5 mm² ·s⁻¹ at 25° C., while the cyclic materials have viscositiesof less than about 10 mm².s⁻¹. Examples of silicone oils useful in thepresent invention include: Dow Coming 344, Dow Coming 21330, Dow Coming345, and Dow Coming 200 (manufactured by the Dow Coming Corporation):Silicone 7207 and Silicone 7158 (manufactured by the Union CarbideCorporation). SF:202 (manufactured by General Electric) and SWS-03314(manufactured by Stauffer Chemical).

Suitable non-volatile silicones preferably have an average viscosity offrom about 1,000 to about 2,000,000 mm² ·s⁻¹ at 25° C., more preferablyfrom about 10,000 to about 1,800,000 mm².s⁻¹, even more preferably fromabout 100,000 to about 1,500,000 mm².s⁻¹. Lower viscosity non-volatilesilicone conditioning agents, however, can also be used. Viscosity canbe measured by means of a glass capillary viscometer as set forth in DowComing Corporate Test Method CTM0004, Jul. 20, 1970. Suitablenon-volatile silicone fluids for use herein include polyalkyl siloxanes,polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, polysiloxanes with aminofunctional substitutions, polyether siloxane copolymers, and mixturesthereof. The siloxanes useful in the present invention may be endcappedwith any number of moieties, including, for example, methyl, hydroxyl,ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, amino and carboxyl. However, othersilicone fluids having skin conditioning properties may be used. Thenon-volatile polyalkyl siloxane fluids that may be used include, forexample, polydimethylsiloxanes. These siloxanes are available, forexample, from the General Electric Company as a Viscasil (RTM) seriesand from Dow Corning as the Dow Coming 200 series. Preferably, theviscosity ranges from about 10 mm².s¹ to about 100,000 mm² ·s.⁻¹ at 25°C. The polyalkylaryl siloxane fluids that may be used, also include, forexample, polymethylphenylsiloxanes. These siloxanes are available, forexample, from the General Electric Company as SF 1075 methyl phenylfluid or from Dow Coming as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid. The polyethersiloxane copolymer that may be used includes, for example, apolypropylene oxide modified dimethylpolysiloxane (e.g., Dow CorningDC-1248) although ethylene oxide or mixtures of ethylene oxide andpropylene oxide may also be used.

References disclosing suitable silicone fluids include U.S. Pat. No.2,826,551, Green; U.S. Pat. No. 3,964,500, Drakoff, issued Jun. 22nd,1976; U.S. Pat. No. 4,364,837, Pader; and GB-A-849,433, Woolston. Inaddition, Silicone Compounds distributed by Petrarch Systems Inc., 1984provides an extensive (though not exclusive) listing of suitablesilicone fluids.

Preferred non-volatile silicones for use herein includepolydiorganosiloxanepolyoxy-alkylene copolymers containing at least onepolydiorganosiloxane segment and at least one polyoxyalkylene segment,said polydiorganosiloxane segment consisting essentially of

    R.sub.b SiO.sub.(4--b)/2

siloxane units wherein b has a value of from about 0 to about 3,inclusive, there being an average value of approximately 2 R radicalsper silicon for all siloxane units in the copolymer, and R denotes aradical selected from methyl, ethyl, vinyl, phenyl and a divalentradical bonding said polyoxyalkylene segment to the polydiorganosiloxanesegment, at least about 95% of all R radicals being methyl; and saidpolyoxyalkylene segment having an average molecular weight of at leastabout 1000 and consisting of from about 0 to about 50 mol percentpolyoxypropylene units and from about 50 to about 100 mol percentpolyoxyethylene units, at least one terminal portion of saidpolyoxyalkylene segment being bonded to said polydiorganosiloxanesegment, any terminal portion of said polyoxyalkylene segment not bondedto said polydiorganosiloxane segment being satisfied by a terminatingradical; the weight ratio of polydiorganosiloxane segments topolyoxyalkylene segments in said copolymer having a value of from about2 to about 8. Such polymers are described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,268,499.More preferred for use herein are polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylenecopolymers having the general formula: ##STR1## wherein x and y areselected such that the weight ratio of polydiorganosiloxane segments topolyoxalkylene segments is from about 2 to about 8, the mol ratio ofa:(a+b) is from about 0.5 to about 1, and R is a chain terminatinggroup, especially selected from hydrogen; hydroxyl; alkyl, such asmethyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, benzyl; aryl, such as phenyl; alkoxy suchas methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy, butoxy; benzyloxy; aryloxy, such asphenoxy; alkenyloxy, such as vinyloxy and allyloxy; acyloxy, such asacetoxy, acryloxy and propionoxy and amino, such as dimethylamino.

The number of and average molecular weights of the segments in thecopolymer are such that the weight ratio of polydiorganosiloxanesegments to polyoxyalkylene segments in the copolymer is preferably fromabout 2.5 to about 4.0.

Suitable copolymers are available commercially under the tradenamesBelsil (RTM) from Wacker-Chemie GmbH, Geschaftsbereich S, PostfachD-8000 Munich 22 and Abil (RTM) from Th. Goldschmidt Ltd,. Tego House,Victoria Road, Ruislip, Middlesex, HA4 OYL. Particularly preferred foruse herein are Abil WE 09, Belsil (RTM) 6031, Abil (RTM) B88183 andDC3225C. A preferred silicone herein is known by its CTFA designation asdimethicone copolyol.

The oil phase preferably comprises from about 2% to about 40%, morepreferably from about 5% to about 30% by weight of composition ofvolatile silicones and from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably fromabout 0.5% to about 5% of non-volatile silicones, for examplepolydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymers.

The compositions herein can also be supplemented by at least one mattefinishing agent, inclusive of materials having a refractive index of 1.5or less. The function of the matte finishing agent is to hide skindefects and reduce shine. Such cosmetically acceptable inorganic agents,i.e., those included in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, ThirdEd., as spherical silica, hydrated silica, silicone-treated silicabeads, mica, talc, polyethylene, bentonite, hectorite, kaolin, chalk,diatomaceous earth, attapulgite and the like may be utilized. Of theinorganic components useful as a matte finishing agent talc,polyethylene, hydrated silica, kaolin, titanium dioxide and mixturesthereof are particularly preferred. Materials suitable for use herein aslight-scattering agents can be generally described as spherical shapedinorganic materials having a particle size of up to about 100 microns,preferably from about 5 to about 50 microns, for example sphericalsilica particles. Highly preferred from the viewpoint of oil absorptionand shine reduction, especially in humectant containing products, arespherical silica particles having a specific surface area (N₂, BET) ofat least 150 m² /g (ASTM-D3663-91) and a pore volume of at least 0.5ml/g (ASTM-D4222-91).

Another desirable component of the compositions herein is a humectant ormixture of humectants. The humectant or mixture of humectants herein ispreferably present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 30%, morepreferably from about 1% to about 25%, and especially from about 3% toabout 15% by weight of composition. Suitable humectants are selectedfrom glycerine and polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant having a viscosityat 25° C. of 300,000 to 1,100,000 mPa.s; a specific gravity at 25° C. of1 to 1.2 g/ml, a pH of 5.0 to 5.5; a bound water content of 33 to 58%;and, a free water content from 5 to 20%.

The humectant can be incorporated at least partly into the oil phase ofthe water-in-oil emulsion so as to form a multiphasehumectant-in-oil-in-water dispersion. In these embodiments, the oilphase comprises from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1%to about 3% by weight of humectant on a composition basis. Suitably, thehumectant is introduced into the oil phase in the form of a mixture withor incorporated within a particulate lipophilic or hydrophobic carriermaterial, for example a cross-linked hydrophobic acrylate ormethacrylate copolymer as described in detail hereafter.

Suitable polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricants are marketed by GuardianChemical Corporation under the trademark "Lubrajel". The "Lubrajels"identified as "Lubrajel DV", "Lubrajel MS", and "Lubrajel CG" arepreferred in the present invention. The gelling agents sold under thesetrademarks contain about 1% propylene glycol.

Other suitable humectants include sorbitol, panthenols, propyleneglycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, alkoxylated glucosederivatives, such as Glucam (RTM) E-20, hexanetriol, glucose ethers,sodium hyaluronate, and mixtures thereof. Urea is also suitably added asa humectant in the internal aqueous phase.

The panthenol moisturiser can be selected from D-panthenol (R!-2,4-dihydroxy-N- 3-hydroxypropyl)!-3,3-dimethylbutylbutamide),DL-panthenol, calcium pantothenate, royal jelly, panthetine,pantotheine, panthenyl ethyl ether, pangamic acid, pyridoxin, pantoyllactose and Vitamin B complex.

In preferred embodiments, the humectant is selected from glycerine andsodium hyaluronate, and mixtures thereof. Chemically, glycerine is1,2,3-propanetriol and is a product of commerce. When present, sodiumhyaluronate is preferably incorporated at a level of from about 0.01% toabout 2% by weight. The mixtures are especially valuable herein from theviewpoint of providing enhanced moisturisation.

A further desirable component of the compositions herein is a lubricant.A preferred lubricant herein is a pre-emulsifiedsilicone/polyglyceryl-methacrylate lubricant such as those marketedunder the trademark Lubrasil (RTM) from the Guardian ChemicalCorporation, 230 Marcus Blvd., Hauppage. N.Y. 11787. In general,Lubrasil (RTA) can be described as a mergence of silicone oil andpolyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant in which the silicone oil ismicro-emulsified using high energy to form a complex. Lubrasil alsocomprises propylene glycol and Polysorbate 20.

Another suitable component of the compositions herein is analuminium-magnesium-hydroxystearate gelling agent. Thealuminium-magnesium-hydroxystearate gelling agent preferably comprisesfrom about 5 to about 40% , more preferably from about 15% to about 25%,especially from about 17% to about 23% by weight thereof ofaluminium-magnesium hydroxystearate and from about 95% to about 60%,more preferably from about 85% to about 75%, especially from about 83%to about 77% by weight thereof of a lipophilic oil component which inpreferred embodiments is selected from mineral oil, isopropyl myristate,isopropyl palmitate, volatile silicones, castor oil and dioctyl adipate,and mixtures thereof, preferably volatile silicones as describedgenerally above, more preferably cyclomethicone.

The aluminium-magnesium hydroxystearate gelling agent can be included inthe compositions of the present invention at a level of from about 0.01%to about 5%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 0.8% especially fromabout 0.05% to about 0.5%, by weight of composition, wherein the levelis defined on an aluminium-magnesium-hydroxystearate active basis, thelower levels being highly preferred from the viewpoint of providingoptimum application characteristics.

A preferred aluminium-magnesium-hydroxystearate gelling agent iscommercially available from Guinni Chemie GmbH under the tradenameGilugel Sil 5. (CTFA designation: Cyclomethicone pentamer (and)Aluminium-Magnesium-Hydroxy-Stearate). Gilugel Sil 5 is a lipogelcomprising about 80% cyclomethicone pentamer and about 20%aluminium-magnesium-hydroxy-stearate. It is particularly valuable in thecompositions of the present invention from the viewpoint of improvingemulsion stability, spreadability, Theological characteristics and skinfeel, and for reducing undesirable tack, shine and greasinesscharacteristics associated with humectants such as glycerin.

The balance of the composition of the present invention comprisesdeionized water. The composition preferably comprises from about 15% toabout 95%, more preferably from about 20% to about 60% by weight of theoil phase, and from about 5 % to about 85 %, more preferably from about40% to about 80% by weight of the water phase.

The make-up compositions of the present invention can also comprise aparticulate cross-linked hydrophobic acrylate or methacrylate copolymer.This copolymer is particularly valuable for reducing shine andcontrolling oil while helping to provide effective moisturizationbenefits. The cross-linked hydrophobic polymer is preferably in the formof a copolymer lattice with at least one active ingredient disperseduniformly throughout and entrapped within the copolymer lattice.Alternatively, the hydrophobic polymer can take the form of a porousparticle having a surface area (N₂ -BET) in the range from about 50 to500, preferably 100 to 300m² /g and having the active ingredientabsorbed therein.

The cross-linked hydrophobic polymer when used herein is in an amount offrom about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.3-3% by weight andis preferably incorporated in the external silicone-containing oilphase. The active ingredient can be one or more or a mixture of skincompatible oils, skin compatible humectants, emollients, moisturizingagents and sunscreens. The polymer material is in the form of a powder,the powder being a combined system of particles. The system of powderparticles forms a lattice which includes unit particles of less thanabout one micron in average diameter, agglomerates of fused unitparticles of sized in the range of about 20 to 100 microns in averagediameter and aggregates of clusters of fused agglomerates of sizes inthe range of about 200 to 1,200 microns in average diameter.

The powder material of the present invention which can be employed asthe carrier for the active ingredient can be broadly described as across-linked "post absorbed" hydrophobic polymer lattice. The powderpreferably has entrapped and dispersed therein, an active which may bein the form of a solid, liquid or gas. The lattice is in particulateform and constitutes free flowing discrete solid particles when loadedwith the active material. The lattice may contain a predeterminedquantity of the active material. The polymer has the structural formula:##STR2## where the ratio of x to y is 80:20, R' is --CH₂ CH₂ -- and R"is --(CH₂)₁₁ CH₃.

The hydrophobic polymer is a highly crosslinked polymer, moreparticularly a highly cross-linked polymethacrylate copolymer. Thematerial is manufactured by the Dow Corning Corporation, Midland. Mich.,USA, and sold under the trademark POLYTRAP (RTM). It is an ultralightfree-flowing white powder and the particles are capable of absorbinghigh levels of lipophilic liquids and some hydrophilic liquids while atthe same time maintaning a free-flowing powder character. The powderstructure consists of a lattice of unit particles less than one micronthat are fused into agglomerates of 20 to 100 microns and theagglomerates are loosely clustered into macro-particles or aggregates ofabout 200 to about 1200 micron size. The polymer powder is capable ofcontaining as much as four times its weight of fluids, emulsions,dispersions or melted solids.

Adsorption of actives onto the polymer powder can be accomplished usinga stainless steel mixing bowl and a spoon, wherein the active is addedto the powder and the spoon is used to gently fold the active into thepolymer powder. Low viscosity fluids may be adsorbed by addition of thefluids to a sealable vessel containing the polymer and then tumbling thematerials until a consistency is achieved. More elaborate blendingequipment such as ribbon or twin cone blenders can also be employed. Thepreferred active ingredient for use herein is glycerine. Preferably, theweight ratio of humectant: carrier is from about 1:4 to about 3:1.

Also suitable as a highly cross-linked polymethacrylate copolymer isMicrosponges 5647. This takes the form of generally spherical particlesof cross-linked hydrophobic polymer having a pore size of from about0.01 to about 0.05 μm and a surface area of 200-300m² /g. Again, it ispreferably loaded with humectant in the levels described above.

The compositions of the invention can also contain a hydrophilic gellingagent at a level preferably from about 0.01% to about 10%, morepreferably from about 0.02% to about 2%, and especially from about 0.02%to about 0.5%. The gelling agent preferably has a viscosity (1% aqueoussolution, 20° C., Brookfield RVT) of at least about 4000 mPa.s, morepreferably at least about 10,000 mPa.s and especially at least 50,000mPa.s.

Suitable hydrophilic gelling agents can generally be described aswater-soluble or colloidally water-soluble polymers, and includecellulose ethers (e.g. hydroxyethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose,hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose), polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinylalcohol,polyquaternium-10, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum and xanthan gum.

Among suitable hydrophilic gelling agents are acrylic acid/ethylacrylate copolymers and the carboxyvinyl polymers sold by the B.F.Goodrich Company under the trade mark of Carbopol resins. These resinsconsist essentially of a colloidally water-soluble polyalkenyl polyethercrosslinked polymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with from 0.75% to 2.00%of a crosslinking agent such as for example polyallyl sucrose orpolyallyl pentaerythritol. Examples include Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940,Carbopol 950, Carbopol 954, Carbopol 980, Carbopol 951 and Carbopol 981.Carbopol 934 is a water-soluble polymer of acrylic acid crosslinked withabout 1 % of a polyallyl ether of sucrose having an average of about 5.8allyl groups for each sucrose molecule. Also suitable for use herein arehydrophobically-modified cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid havingamphipathic properties available under the Trade Name Carbopol 1382,Carbopol 1342 and Pemulen TR-1 (CTFA Designation: Acrylates/10-30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer). A combination of the polyalkenyl polyethercross-linked acrylic acid polymer and the hydrophobically modifiedcross-linked acrylic acid polymer is also suitable for use herein. Thegelling agents herein are particularly valuable for providing excellentstability characteristics over both normal and elevated temperatures.

Neutraling agents suitable for use in neutralizing acidic groupcontaining hydrophilic gelling agents herein include sodium hydroxide,potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine,diethanolamine and triethanolamine.

The make-up compositions herein can additionally comprise an emollient.Emollients suitable for the compositions of the present inventioninclude natural and synthetic oils selected from mineral, vegetable, andanimal oils, fats and waxes, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, alkyleneglycol and polyalkylene glycol ethers and esters, fatty acids andmixtures thereof.

Suitable emollients for use herein include, for example, optionallyhydroxy-substituted C₈ -C₅₀ unsaturated fatty acids and esters thereof,C₁ -C₂₄ esters of C₈ -C₃₀ saturated fatty acids such as isopropylmyristate, cetyl palmitate and octyldodecylmyristate (Wickenol 142),beeswax, saturated and unsaturated fatty alcohols such as behenylalcohol and cetyl alcohol, hydrocarbons such as mineral oils, petrolatumand squalane, fatty sorbitan esters (see U.S. Pat. No. 3,988,255,Seiden, issued Oct. 26 1976), lanolin and lanolin derivatives, such aslanolin alcohol ethoxylated, hydroxylated and acetylated lanolins,cholesterol and derivatives thereof, animal and vegetable triglyceridessuch as almond oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, linseed oil, jojoba oil,oil of apricot pits, walnuts, palm nuts, pistachio nuts, sesame seeds,rapeseed, cade oil, corn oil, peach pit oil, poppyseed oil, pine oil,castor oil, soybean oil, avocado oil, safflower oil, coconut oil,hazelnut oil, olive oil, grapeseed oil, and sunflower seed oil and C₁-C₂₄ esters of dimer and trimer acids such as diisopropyl dimerate,diisostearylmalate, diisostearyldimerate and triisostearyltrimerate.

Preferred emollients are selected from cetearyl isononanoate, isopropylpalmitate, isopropyl isostearate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl acetate,trioctyl citrate, PEG isoceteth-3 acetate, dioctyl maleate, propyleneglycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, mineral oil,PPG-20 methylglucose ether, and lanolin alcohol, and mixtures thereof.These emollients may be used independently or in mixtures and may bepresent in the composition of the present invention in an amount fromabout 1% to about 30% by weight, and preferably are present in an amountfrom about 5% to about 15% by weight of the total composition.

The composition may also contain additional materials such as, forexample, fragrances, fillers such as nylon, sun-screens, preservatives,proteins, antioxidants, chelating agents and water-in-oil emulsifiers asappropriate.

Another optional component of the make-up composition is one or moreultraviolet absorbing agents. Ultraviolet absorbing agents, oftendescribed as sunscreening agents, can be present in a concentration inthe range of between about 1% and about 12% by weight, based on thetotal weight of composition. Preferably, the UV absorbing agentsconstitute between about 2% and 8% by weight. More preferably, the UVabsorbing agents can be present in the composition in a concentrationrange of between about 4% and about 6% by weight. Of the ultravioletabsorbing agents suitable for use herein, ultra fine titanium dioxide,ultra fine zinc oxide, benzophenone-3, octyl dimethyl PABA (Padimate O),octyl methoxycinnamate and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.

A chelating agent can also be incorporated in the make-up composition. Achelating agent is preferably present in the composition in aconcentration in the range of between about 0.02% to about 0.10% byweight, based on the total weight of the composition. Preferably, thechelating agent is present in a concentration in the range of betweenabout 0.03% and about 0.07% by weight, based on the total weight of thecomposition. Among the chelating agents that may be included in thecomposition is trisodium EDTA.

Another optional but preferred component of the foundation compositionis one or more preservatives. The preservative concentration in thefoundation composition, based on the total weight of that composition,is in the range of between about 0.2% and about 0.8% by weight,preferably between about 0.4% and about 0.6% by weight. Suitablepreservatives for use herein include diazolidinyl urea, methyl parabenand ethyl paraben, and mixtures thereof.

Another optional but preferred component of the foundation compositionis a sebum spreading agent. The sebum spreader is present at a level offrom about 0.01% to about 5% by weight of composition. A preferred sebumspreading agent is sodium C₈ -C₁₆ isoalkylsuccinyl lactoglobulinsulfonate (Biopol(RTM) OE).

A lower (C₁ -C₆) alcohol may also be present in the foundation of thepresent invention at a level of from about 0.5% to about 10% by weightof composition. Suitable lower alcohols for use herein include ethanol,hexylene glycol, butylene glycol, propanol and propylene glycol,preferably ethanol.

The make-up compositions of the present invention can be in the form offoundations, blushers, concealers, and the like, preferably asfoundations and blushers.

In its process aspect, the present invention broadly relates to aprocess for manufacturing a colour cosmetic water-in-oil or oil-in-wateremulsion composition in which the colour derives from the addition ofinorganic or organic pigment, wherein at least a portion of the pigmentis made water-dispersible by surface treatment with hydrophilic polymer,and wherein the process comprises adding all or part of thewater-dispersible polymer-treated pigment into a pre-formed water-in-oilor oil-in-water emulsion.

The process is particularly valuable for the purposes of shade-matchingcolour cosmetic emulsion formulae, in which process a proportion ofmonochromatic water-dispersible polymer-treated pigment is added to thepre-formed water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion composition. In thepreferred shade matching process, the pre-formed emulsion is pigmentedwith a polychromatic pigment mixture and the monochromatic,polymer-treated pigment is added incrementally thereto to achieve thedesired colour target.

The following Tables are provided to illustrate compositions of themake-up of the present invention:

                                      TABLE 1                                     __________________________________________________________________________    Water-in-oil emulsions                                                                      I   II  III IV  V   VI  VII VIII                                              Wt  Wt  Wt  Wt  Wt  Wt  Wt  Wt                                  Example       %   %   %   %   %   %   %   %                                   __________________________________________________________________________    A.                                                                            Cetyloctanoate                                                                              --  --  --  2.0 --  --  --  --                                  Cyclomethicone                                                                              5.0 20.0                                                                              12.25                                                                             15.0                                                                              8.0 5.0 8.6 15.6                                Cyclomethicone/dimethicone                                                                  17.2                                                                              --  20.0                                                                              5.0 8.0 13.0                                                                              17.2                                                                              12.5                                copolyol (90:10)                                                              Propylparaben 0.25                                                                              0.25                                                                              0.25                                                                              0.25                                                                              0.25                                                                              0.25                                                                              0.25                                                                              0.25                                Laureth-7     0.5 0.5 --  0.5 --  0.5 --  0.5                                 Dioctyl maleate                                                                             --  --  --  --  10.0                                                                              --  --  --                                  Dimethicone   --  --  --  3.0 5.0 10.0                                                                              --  --                                  Benzophenone-3                                                                              --  --  --  --  --  2.0 --  --                                  Propylene glycol dicaprylate/                                                               --  --  --  5.0 --  10.0                                                                              --  --                                  dicaprate                                                                     Octyl methoxycinnamate                                                                      10.0                                                                              --  1.0 --  --  --  5.0 --                                  B.                                                                            Titanium Dioxide                                                                            8.25                                                                              6.0 1.5 --  8.0 12.0                                                                              8.25                                                                              8.25                                Titanium Dioxide treated                                                                    0.25                                                                              0.5 3.0 --  0.25                                                                              --  0.25                                                                              0.25                                (Aluminium hydrate, stearic                                                   acid)                                                                         Titanated Micas                                                                             0.1 0.1 0.1 0.25                                                                              1.0 --  0.1 0.1                                 Talc          3.39                                                                              4.5 6.0 0.7 0.7 --  3.39                                                                              4.0                                 Nylon         --  --  --  --  0.5 --  --  --                                  C.                                                                            Cyclomethicone/dimethicone                                                                  1.85                                                                              1.5 1.85                                                                              5.0 1.0 1.0 1.85                                                                              --                                  copolyol (90:10)                                                              Acrylates Copolymer                                                                         --  --  --  --  1.0 --  --  --                                  Acrylates Copolymer (loaded                                                                 --  --  6.0 --  --  1.0 1.0 --                                  with glycerine)                                                               D.                                                                            Yellow Iron Oxide                                                                           1.2 --  0.6 0.4 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2                                 Red Iron Oxide                                                                              0.49                                                                              --  0.6 0.49                                                                              0.49                                                                              0.2 0.6 0.42                                Black Iron Oxide                                                                            0.16                                                                              --  0.24                                                                              0.1 0.1 0.24                                                                              0.24                                                                              0.22                                Ultramarine Blue                                                                            --  --  --  0.1 --  --  --  --                                  Cyclomethicone                                                                              --  --  --  --  0.68                                                                              --  --  --                                  Silica (spheron P1500)                                                                      4.0 --  1.0 --  0.1 --  --  --                                  Silica beads (Spheron L1500)                                                                --  --  3.0 --  --  0.1 0.5 0.5                                 E.                                                                            Synthetic Wax 0.1 0.5 0.5 0.1 --  --  --  0.1                                 Arachidyl behenate                                                                          0.3 --  --  0.3 --  0.3 0.3 0.3                                 Stearic Acid  --  --  --  --  --  --  2.5 --                                  Palmitic Acid --  --  --  --  --  2.5 --  --                                  F.                                                                            Trihydroxy-stearin                                                                          0.3 0.3 1.5 1.5 --  --  --  0.3                                 Cyclomethicone                                                                              1.0 4.0 --  --  4.0 4.0 4.0 1.0                                 Beeswax       1.5 1.2 --  --  1.3 --  --  --                                  Abil WEO9     --  3.0 --  --  --  --  --  --                                  Palm Oil      --  --  --  --  4   --  --  --                                  Al Mg hydroxy stearate/                                                                     0.5 --  1.8 1.5 10.0                                                                              3.0 3.0 --                                  cyclomethicone (20:80)                                                        G.                                                                            Ethylene brassylate                                                                         0.05                                                                              0.05                                                                              0.05                                                                              0.05                                                                              0.05                                                                              0.05                                                                              0.05                                                                              0.05                                BHT           0.05                                                                              0.05                                                                              0.05                                                                              0.05                                                                              0.05                                                                              0.05                                                                              0.05                                                                              0.05                                H.                                                                            Deionized water                                                                             <-- --                                                                            -- --                                                                             -- --                                                                             to 100                                                                            -- --                                                                             -- --                                                                             -- --                                                                             -- -->                              Methyl paraben                                                                              0.12                                                                              0.15                                                                              0.15                                                                              0.12                                                                              0.12                                                                              0.12                                                                              0.15                                                                              0.12                                Propylene glycol                                                                            8.0 8.0 --  --  1.75                                                                              8.00                                                                              --  --                                  Sodium chloride                                                                             2.0 1.4 1.4 0.5 2.0 2.0 2.5 2.0                                 Sodium dihydroacetate                                                                       0.3 0.3 0.3 0.8 0.8 0.3 0.8 0.3                                 Glycerine     4.5 15.0                                                                              10.0                                                                              5.0 6.5 10.0                                                                              3.0 10.0                                Trisodium EDTA                                                                              --  --  --  --  --  --  0.01                                                                              --                                  Phenoxyethanol                                                                              --  --  0.5 --  --  --  0.2 --                                  Titanium dioxide                                                                            1.5 6.0 6.0 6.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 0                                   Polymer pigment 1                                                                           0.8 0.5 0.5 0.8 0.8 0.5 0.5 0.8                                 Polymer pigment 2                                                                           0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3                                 Polymer pigment 3                                                                           0.2 0.2 0.2 0.4 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2                                 Triethanolamine                                                                             --  --  --  --  --  --  0.75                                                                              --                                  Allantoin     --  --  0.1 --  --  --  --  --                                  Biopol OE     --  0.5 --  --  --  0.5 --  --                                  Ethanol       --  6.0 --  --  --  2.0 --  --                                  Panthenol     --  --  3.0 --  --  2.0 --  --                                  Hydroxyethyl-cellulose                                                                      --  --  0.1 --  --  --  --  --                                  Ultra fine zinc oxide                                                                       --  --  --  0.2 0.2 --  --  --                                  Sodium hyaluronate                                                                          --  0.05                                                                              0.08                                                                              0.1 --  --  0.2 --                                  I.                                                                            Deionized Water                                                                             --  --  --  --  10.0                                                                              --  --  --                                  Magnesium Aluminum Silicate                                                                 --  --  --  --  0.2 --  --  --                                  J.                                                                            Propylene Glycol                                                                            --  --  --  2.0 --  --  --  --                                  Xanthan Gum   --  --  --  0.08                                                                              --  --  --  --                                  Essential Oils                                                                              --  --  --  0.20                                                                              --  --  --  --                                  Perfume Oil   --  0.25                                                                              --  0.20                                                                              --  --  --  --                                  Vitamin A palmitate                                                                         0.05                                                                              0.05                                                                              --  --  --  --  --  --                                  Vitamin E acetate                                                                           --  --  1.0 --  2.0 --  --  --                                  L.                                                                            Aloe Vera Gel --  --  3.0 --  --  --  --  --                                  Chamomile Extract                                                                           --  --  0.1 --  --  --  --  --                                  __________________________________________________________________________     Polymer pigments 1, 2 and 3 are waterdispersible polymer treated red,         yellow and black iron oxides, wherein the polymer is a diglycol               cyclohexanedimethanol isophthalates sulfoisophthalates copolymer.        

The various components listed in Table 1 have been segregated intogroups, the constituents of each group being mixed together before beingadded to members of the remaining groups in accordance with theprocedures set forth below.

In the first step, the mixture of components of phase A is stirred forapproximately 5 minutes with sheer mixing until homogeneous. With highspeed shear mixing, the materials of phase B are added gradually to Aand the batch is mixed for 35 minutes until dispersed.

The components of phase C and then phase D are slowly added to themixture of phases A and B with high shear mixing until dispersed. Silicais added at this point and dispersed through the mixture.

The components of phase E are added into the resulting batch which isthen heated to 84° C. and mixed until dispersed. The vessel is cooled to45° C. and the premixed phase F is added. The batch is mixed untilhomogeneous. The mixture is cooled to 30° C. and phase G is added.

A premix of phase H is made by mixing all the components untilcompletely dispersed. At 30° C. the premix of phase H is added sparinglyto the batch mixture with high shear, ensuring that there is no excesswater on the surface. The mixture is then mixed for 15 minutes. Finallyphases I, J, K, and L are added.

The resulting make-up composition is ready for packing.

                  TABLE 2                                                         ______________________________________                                        Oil-in-water emulsions                                                                            I       II      III                                                           Wt      Wt      Wt                                        Example             %       %       %                                         ______________________________________                                        A.                                                                            Glyceryl monostearatel PEG-100 stearate                                                           0.8     2.5     1.0                                       PEG-10 soya sterol  1.5     --      2.0                                       Sorbitan monostearate                                                                             2.0     0.1     2.25                                      Propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate                                                            2.5     10.0    5.0                                       Dioctyl maleate     7.7     3.0     15.0                                      Squalane            --      --      2.5                                       Octyl methoxycinnamate                                                                            --      --      5.0                                       Benzophenone-3      --      --      2.0                                       Hydroxylated lecithin                                                                             0.5     --      --                                        Lecithin            2.0     3.5     0.4                                       Vitamin E linoleate --      --      0.5                                       Cetyl alcohol       --      --      1.0                                       Cetearylisononanoate                                                                              5.25    --      5.0                                       Mineral oil         1.5     --      2.0                                       Beeswax             0.5     --      0.5                                       Glyceryl monostearate                                                                             2.25    --      --                                        Phenoxethol         0.21    0.21    0.21                                      BHA                 --      --      0.1                                       Parabens            0.09    0.09    0.09                                      Treated iron oxides - yellow                                                                      0.3     --      0.3                                       Treated iron oxides - red                                                                         0.2     --      0.2                                       Treated iron oxides - black                                                                       0.05    --      0.05                                      Treated TiO2        3.0     2.0     10.0                                      B.                                                                            Deionized Water     1.2     1.2     2.0                                       Titanium Dioxide    6.0     8.0     3.0                                       Titanated Micas     --      --      2.4                                       Talc                1.0     --      3.0                                       Treated iron oxides - yellow                                                                      --      0.34    0.5                                       Treated iron oxides - red                                                                         --      0.46    0.4                                       Treated iron oxides - black                                                                       --      0.08    0.14                                      Ultramarine blue    --      0.02    0.05                                      Ammonium acrylate copolymer                                                                       0.2     0.2     0.2                                       Nylon               --      --      0.5                                       C.                                                                            Deionized water     <-- --  to 100% -- -->                                    Triethanolamine     0.5     0.5     0.5                                       Methyl paraben      0.1     0.1     0.1                                       Trisodium EDTA      0.01    0.01    0.05                                      Allantoin           0.09    0.09    0.2                                       Phenoxethol         0.42    0.42    0.42                                      Parabens            0.18    0.18    0.18                                      Glycerine           5.0     --      10.0                                      Methyl gluceth-20   5.0     5.0     --                                        D.                                                                            Potassium cetylphosphate                                                                          1.0     1.0     0.5                                       E.                                                                            Methyl methacrylate cross-polymer                                                                 --      0.5     3.0                                       F.                                                                            Deionized Water     2.0     2.0     2.0                                       Magnesium Aluminum Silicate                                                                       0.2     0.25    0.15                                      G.                                                                            Deionized Water     2.0     2.0     2.0                                       Propylene glycol    2.0     8.0     --                                        Xanthan Gum         0.16    0.08    0.16                                      Hydroxyethylcellulose                                                                             0.1     0.1     0.05                                      H.                                                                            Lubrasil            0.5     1.0     --                                        I.                                                                            Cyclomethicone/Dimethiconol                                                                       15.0    3.0     --                                        Dimethicone/Dimethiconol                                                                          2.0     10.0    --                                        J.                                                                            Isododecane         2.0     --      --                                        K.                                                                            Silica beads (Spheron L1500)                                                                      2.5     0.5     --                                        L.                                                                            Essential Oils      0.2     --      --                                        Perfume Oil         0.2     --      --                                        Vitamin A palmitate --      --      0.05                                      M.                                                                            Aloe Vera Gel       --      3.0     3.0                                       Chamomile Extract   --      --      0.1                                       ______________________________________                                         These iron oxides are treated with a diglycol cyclohexanedimethanol           isophthalates sulfoisophthalates copolymer.                              

The various components listed in Table 2 have been segregated intogroups, the constituents of each group being mixed together before beingadded to members of the remaining groups in accordance with theprocedures set forth below.

In the first step, the mixture of components of phase B is stirred withshear mixing until homogeneous. With slow speed shear mixing at 65°-75°C., the materials of phase C are admixed individually in order as givenin the formulations.

The components of phase A are mixed until dispersed. The ingredients ofphase K are then added to phase A with high shear mixing.

The magnesium aluminium silicate of phase F is prehydrated for at least30 minutes at 50° C. and is then added to the aqueous phase C andthoroughly dispersed therein.

The deionised water/propylene glycol (or glycerine)/xanthan gum slurryof phase G is added to heated aqueous phase C at 65°-67° C. and phase Bis slowly added to phase C. Stirring is continued until homogeneous,while maintaining a temperature of 65°-67° C. Component D is then addedto the resulting mixture with stirring.

The components of F and G are added to the mixture with slow stirringfor 5 minutes until homogeneous. Then component E is added to themixture with slow stirring until completely incorporated.

The resulting oil phase of components A and K is then added to the waterphase of components B, C, D, E, F and G and agitated via stirring toemulsify the mixture at a temperature of about 65-67 temperature of65°-67° C. The resulting mixture is cooled down.

At about 35° C., the Lubrasil of phase H is added to the resulting batchand mixed until homogeneous. At about 35° C., the silicone mixture ofphase I is added to the resulting batch. The resulting mixture isagitated with low-speed mixing until a gel-like consistency is obtained,generally within about 1-2 minutes. At 30° C., the perfume oil andessential oils of phase L are added and then the components of phase Mare added.

The resulting make-up composition is ready for packing.

The make-up compositions of the Examples exhibit improved coverage andwear, with excellent moisturisation, spreadability, product stabilityand skin-feel, reduced shine and tackiness and a uniform coverage givinga natural skin appearance.

The process is repeated for each of the examples above, with theexception that 10% of the total amount of each of polymer pigments 1, 2and 3 is reserved for addition as a final step. Before packing, thecolour of the make-up composition is spectroscopically compared to thedesired target and the reserved amounts of the polymer pigments aredispersed as necessary into the make-up composition using low-shearmixing until the desired colour target is met.

The shade-matching process of the Examples provides a method in whichthe shade of the finished product can be adjusted to the desired targetin a convenient manner without the need to use separately preparedmonochromatic batches of the finished compositions.

I claim:
 1. A color cosmetic water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsionwherein the aqueous phase contains from about 0.1% to about 25% byweight of the emulsion of a water dispersible pigment selected from thegroup consisting of iron oxide and titanium dioxide pigment and thepigment is surface treated with diglycol cyclohexanedimethanolisophthalates and sulfoisophthalates copolymer and the oil phasecontains from about 0.1% to about 25% by weight of the emulsion of anoil-dispersible pigment.
 2. A composition according to claim 1 whereinthe surface-treated water-dispersible pigment comprises from about 1% toabout 40% by weight thereof of the surface-treating polymer.
 3. Acomposition according to claim 1 wherein the emulsion compositioncomprises from about 0.5% to about 15% by weight of thewater-dispersible pigment.
 4. A composition according to claim 1 whereinthe emulsion composition comprises from about 1 % to about 12% by weightof the water-dispersible pigment.
 5. A composition according to claim 1wherein the emulsion composition comprises from about 0.5% to about 15%by weight of the oil-dispersible pigment.
 6. A composition according toclaim 1 wherein the emulsion composition comprises from about 1 % toabout 12% by weight of the oil-dispersible pigment.
 7. A compositionaccording to claim 2 wherein the surface-treated water-dispersiblepigment comprises from about 5% to about 30% by weight thereof of thesurface-treating polymer.
 8. A process for manufacturing a colorcosmetic water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion composition in which thecolor derives from the addition of titanium dioxide or iron oxidepigment and wherein at least a portion of the pigment is madewater-dispersible by surface treatment with a diglycolcyclohexanedimethanol isophthalates and sulfoisophthalates copolymer,which process comprises adding all or part of the water-dispersible,polymer-treated pigment into a pre-formed water-in-oil or oil-in-wateremulsion.